Gearing Up- by Tucker

It was dark and early on my last mornings in Idaho. In the wood-floored wall tent, I squinted at Charlie as he warmed his skinny butt by the stove. The coffee was made, breakfast was coming, and I was waiting for Charlie to say something that, in my morning mood, would surely piss me off. So were going the mornings.

I was squishing job end/start dates together, packing hunters in and elk out for the busiest part of hunting season in the Frank Church Wilderness and then hopping off the horse into the car (after a sojourn home) and hooking onto a dog team at Ryne’s. 

In his fifties, with the wiry frame of a boy and facial hair of the Lorax, Charlie had a knack for filling spaces, like the quiet. Today he began with a ballad: 

“Now Sam McGee was from Tennessee, where the cotton blooms and blows…” 

From there, The Cremation of Sam McGee stumbled along with some pauses and oh-how’d-that-go’s, only to trail off around Sam’s last request. Too soon, I thought, as the redundancy of the new day marched on with talk of politics and hunters, how many mules to take where, and how the earth might not actually be round anymore — pity. My dad had given me a copy of The Best of Robert Service but I didn’t begin to appreciate his poetry until that morning with Charlie.

A few days later, I found refuge at home. With a beer in hand I sat on a kitchen stool, watching my dad put together a pizza from scratch. In a good mood, my mom toodled nearby. 

“How now, brown cow?” She asked me, non sequitur. 

“Yes, how now, brown cow,” my dad chuckled and continued:

“I never saw a purple cow, 

I never hope to see one; 

But I can tell you, anyhow, 

I’d rather see than be one.”

The radio chattered on the counter.

“That’s just one of those things that always stays in your head. One of those universal things that’s out there. Like The Cremation of Sam McGee,” he added.

Soon enough, out walked the ballad, pulled from the shelf.

Mom read:

“And I burrowed a hole in that glowing coal, and I stuffed in Sam McGee. 

Then I made a hike, for I didn’t like to hear him sizzle so,” 

“Ha!” She cackled, “That was always my mother’s favorite part.”

I left Montana. The Best of Robert Service sitting shotgun. Memorizing my way along into the Yukon, I slept next to the car just outside of Watson Lake with some foggy northern lights above, passed Robert Service Rd in Whitehorse the next day, and bumped along to Two Rivers by that night. Words from school like iambic and anapestic bobbing around in my head.

Then, it was hum, hum, hum, setting into the rhythm of running dogs; a gear shift after packing. From saddling in silence to harnessing in chaos. From pulling a string of mules to being pulled by a line of dogs. Cowboy boots to rubber boots to mukluks to overshoes to Michelin Man status.

“Tucker, how are you supposed to spot lichen on our lichen quest if you’re asleep?” Ryne asks me as she drives along the Steese Highway. 

“I’m resting so I can collect lichen more efficiently.”

Ryne, Sam, and Cartel the husky sit up front, scanning the sides of road for lichen to feed to the reindeer. I stretch my legs out along the back bench in the dog truck and yawn. Out the window goes a birch, a birch, a birch. I think about how I want to buy my own cold weather gear this year.

“Ryne, what over-mittens should I get?”

“Beaver mitts.”

“How much is a -40F sleeping bag?”

“$1000.”

I double check the math in my head: 10 fingers + 10 toes - 0 = Priceless. 

I gaze out the window some more to see a birch, there’s a birch, there’s a birch, “And before nightfall a corpse was all that was left of Sam McGee…” 

Bounce along the trail, ATV hooked up to the dogs, “Till I came to the marge of Lake Lebarge, and a derelict there lay.”

Chisel at a soft yet solid dog poop during morning chores, “It was jammed in the ice, but I saw in a trice it was called the ‘Alice May.’”

Carry a bundle of firewood up the cabin steps, “And I looked at it, and I thought a bit, and I looked at my frozen chum.”

Watch the daily ravens fly by, “Then ‘Here,’ said I, with a sudden cry, ‘is my cre-ma-tor-eum!’”

Ryno Kennel hosted a spontaneous, neighborly get together the other night. And amidst the conversations across the room, I heard it: “How now, brown cow.” 

I poked Sam, who was sitting next to me.

“How now, brown cow?” I asked her, eyebrows raised. She looked at me quizzically as I relaxed back into my chair, took a swig of beer, and settled into the rhythm and rhyme of being back.

Race Fans- LET'S RACE!

Alright race fans- we have some exciting news!

We’ve just submitted our applications for a couple big races! Drum roll…………

A Ryno Kennel team mushed by Tucker will be running in the 2023 Copper Basin!

AND

A Ryno Kennel team mushed by Sam will be running in the 2023 Quest 550!

For Tucker, this will be his first dog sled race. For Sam, this will be her second. In 2021, Sam ran in the Willow 300. For both Tucker and Sam, the main goal will be having fun for canines and humans alike. They will run a slower schedule and hopefully take many of the youngsters who have not yet run a race. I plan on handling for both races, which might be a bad idea, but I’ll try my best to behave myself and not get too wrapped up in the race. The Copper Basin and Quest are two of our favorite events, so I’m PUMPED that Ryno Kennel will be at the starting line!

And while I haven’t officially signed up yet, I do plan to run in the Solstice 30 Skijor Race and perhaps another skijor race in preparation for our big spring skijor trip! In recent bikejor practices I tried:

Wingman- B+

Fly- D-

Havarti- D-

Elmer- A

I do want to note that while I am grading some dogs harshly (Fly and Havarti), that by no means rules them out. I attached the dogs to my bike and went for a short ride, hoping the dogs would pull. Both Fly and Havarti didn’t understand if it was fun loose run or if they were supposed to be pulling. With actual training (not just conditioning), I’m sure many of the dogs could be great skijor dogs. Dogs who aren’t instant naturals just need a partner or perhaps chasing another team to learn what sort of game we’re playing. So I’m not being entirely fair when I give them such low grades without training.

Anyways- lots of excitement on the calendar for this winter. We hope you all follow along!

Fire

The first photo of Fire is seared into my mind. It was my first Yukon Quest in 2015. I had many young dogs and Fire. I made a silly decision to camp 37 miles outside of Dawson (after taking my long rest, meaning rather than stopping at Earl and Sandy’s, I thought four, 37 mile runs would make more sense ). We camped directly on the frozen Yukon River. I imagine Fire thinking- well, if you insist on stopping after we JUST stopped for hours in Dawson, I guess I’ll just enjoy the scenery. It was like she knew I was a newbie and took it upon herself to coach me through it. I’ve met few leaders with the drive that Fire possessed. She never tired of running in lead. The responsibility didn’t affect her. Fire coached me through our first competitive Copper Basin runs and showed me how good leaders don’t need trails. She set a high bar for future Ryno Kennel leaders. Her great grandkids- Spitfire, Foxfire, and Firefly- are starting to follow in her footsteps. The last couple of years, Fire lived with my good friend Kalyn. In her old age, Fire became goofy and playful. A once sometimes shy dog would meet guests in the Chena OC yurt with a weird head cock and snapping,short woofs! She lived a life full of adventure and taught me so much. You will be missed Fire.

Skijor Prep

Instead of running in a 1000-mile race this year, I’m switching it up and designing a skijor trip. The current plan is to skijor from Kaltag through Unalakleet to a cabin in the Blueberry hills then back to Unalakleet. This section is one of my FAVORITE sections on the Iditarod trail. Also, with Tripod Flats cabin and Old Woman’s cabin, there are sheltered places to stop along the route. Unalakleet is also a major hub for coastal communities, so I can just book an Alaskan Airlines flight to bring us home at the end of the adventure. As long as we don’t get blasted by a coastal storm, it sounds perfect right? I’m excited.

Prior to this winter, the farthest I’ve skijored is 10 miles, so needless to say, I have a lot to learn! I grew up cross-country skiing and have still been using my 20-year-old skis to practice. At least there’s some foundational knowledge. While my old skis work great for playing around the kennel, I’ll need to do some research to figure out what kind of skis are best for a remote trip. Also, my current clothing options (parka, boots, bibs etc) are great for mushing; however, I doubt they’ll be the best choice for skijoring. Other gear I’ll need to experiment with are pulk sleds, tents, gloves (beaver mitts are probably not great for skiing), and hats. What kind of cooking apparatus should I bring? Our massive cooker pots are great for a team of 14 dogs, but perhaps not necessary for a human and two canines. Which brings me to my next big question, and honestly the one I’m most excited about- which dogs should I bring on the trip? How many dogs? Should I bring massive, powerful dogs like Mose or Sherlock? Or is that too much power since it’s hard to slow a dog down with skis? Should I bring smaller dogs with perfect recall like Oryx so that they can be loose on downhills. I’m inclined to bring younger dogs to show them the coast, but perhaps I should bring at least one trail-hardened veteran who I can 100% rely on if the conditions get dicey. So many decisions and experiments! Tucker will be going on this adventure as well, so at the moment, I’m planning on four canine athletes to join us (two for Tucker and two for me, unless Tucker is in too good of shape in which case, two for me, one for Tucker, and one running loose).

Last week, Sam and I brought Fox, Thresher, and Tucker’s dog Charlotte on a day of bikejoring for the first test. Fox was spectacular. A+++. Like a rockstar from the first moment. We biked a trail that went straight up a mountain (I might have left my lung up there from wheezing so much), and Fox drove hard into his harness as if he’s been bikejoring his whole life. Thresher was a bit more confused. He did great in chase, meaning pulling Sam behind me, but he was a little softer on the tug when he partnered with Fox to pull me at the front. Thresher- B. Charlotte (who is only one year old) was solidly mediocre. C-

Since bikejoring with Fox and Thresher, I’ve tested Mose and Sherlock. I’d give Mose a C+ and Sherlock an B+. However, I think both are too powerful, making it hard to regulate our speed. My initial thought is dogs in the 45-55 lb range are best. We’ll see!

Permafrost Tunnel

My folks recently came to visit, and during their time here in Two Rivers, we were treated to a Permafrost Tunnel tour with Roy from the Army Corp of Engineers!

I like to think of myself as a moderately educated person when it comes to permafrost; however, I quickly realized that my comprehension of permafrost was as shallow as black spruce roots (aka real shallow). Good thing I was able to go on this tour and get a better grasp of how COOL permafrost is!

A lot of what Roy described was a bit over my head, but I’ll share some of the facts that stuck with me. Permafrost is perennially frozen ground for two or more years. Since temperature is the only requirement, permafrost can be with or without ice, ranging from hard rock without ice to organic-rich soil with more than half ice by volume. (Also, side note, I’m copying a lot of this info directly from info signs on the tour.) This graphic below shows how the northern part of Alaska is continuous permafrost, meaning over 90% while the Fairbanks area has a discontinuous permafrost distribution, meaning 50-90% permafrost.

The graphic below shows the the permafrost distributions across the polar regions. Take note of Greenland and the lack of permafrost. This is due to the Greenland ice sheet that actually insulates the ground and prevents permafrost!

After laying a groundwork of permafrost facts, we opened up the refridgerator-like door and stepped into the permafrost tunnel. I was picturing a narrow, dark tunnel with spelunking vibes, when in fact the tunnel was enormous and well-lit. Originally created by the Army Corp of Engineers, the tunnel was designed to research permafrost as a possible defense against nuclear attacks during the Cold War. Since then, the permafrost tunnel has been a place for research.

Throughout the tunnel, we could spot ice wedges, like the one shown below. Ice wedges form in a polygonal pattern similar to patterns seen in dried mud flats, except a much larger scale. Each polygon is in the range of 30-50 feet across. The ground cracks, water along with silt, organics, and sometimes air bubbles infiltrate the crack and then freeze. Since the wedges are created with millimeter size cracks forming over and over and over, it can take as many as 3000 years to create an ice wedge like the one in the photo below! Ice wedges haven’t grown in the Fairbanks area since the end of the last Ice Age (about 10,000 years ago). The ice wedges in the tunnel start about 20 feet below the ground surface and reach a depth of 60 feet.

You might notice that alot of the ground isn’t just ice, but is dirt-like:

“Most of the frozen material in the tunnel was originally loess or wind-blownsilt picked up off the river floodplains and deposited in the hills. The silt is bonded by interstitial that fills the pore spaces between the silt particles. In the tunnel, this interstitial ice slowly sublimates (goes from solid to gas without a liquid phase), allowing the silt to fall to the floor as dust. Organic material frozen in silt, now exposed to the air, oxidizes and produces a peculiar odor.” In other words, it smelled strange in the tunnel and was very dusty. We had to walk carefully so as not to kick up clouds of silt.

Doug and an ice formation… I can’t remember which kind so I won’t pretend to know.

Mom, Dad, and Ryne

Kalyn, Sam, and Ryne

Many bones have been found throughout the tunnel. Most are single or pieces of bones, not full skeletons. Most of the bones are dated to about 14,000 years ago; however, here is a stick dated to about 43,000 years ago!

Jess showing off a mammoth bone.

As we approached the door at the end of the tour, I was still in awe at this little slice of ground that we would typically never get to see. I have a new appreciation for the struggles of the Alaska Department of Transportation (no wonder Alaska roads aren’t smooth), and a deeper fascination with the incredible Arctic landscape. A big thank you to Roy for giving us this incredible experience!

Sam, Dalzell, & Gibbs

Joining the RK crew this season is Sam and her pups Dalzell and Gibbs! Though Sam is new to RK, she is not new to the mushing scene. With three winters of mushing including a Willow 300 and many training miles, Sam brings a lot of experience to the team. The last two seasons, Sam trained with ATAO Kennel (Will Troshynski), so she also knows all the Two Rivers trails!

Sam grew up in Michigan where she spent her time hiking, biking, and playing with every dog she met. She graduated from Northern Michigan University in Marquette with a Bachelors of Science in Outdoor Recreation Leadership and Management. She spent some time working for a carpenter who specialized in log homes, and recently admitted that she didn’t mind peeling logs (so Sam has been tackling the log prep for the new retired sled dog living room addition- a big thank you to Sam!). Her favorite food is stir-fry, unless coffee counts, in which case it’s coffee. Sam likes watercolor and her bike is her best friend (which she can say since Dalzell can’t read and won’t see this post). Sam loves reading memoirs and has recently taken a dive into fantasy after prodding from both Kalyn and myself.

This season, Sam will be helping train the dogs and will take a team on the Quest 300!

Dance Off

As temperatures cool, we try to run two days on then one day off. We recently bumped up from two mile runs to four miles runs. It’s crazy to think these dogs will be eating up fifty mile runs or more in just a few months. I wish humans had that sort of endurance. Well, I guess some do, I’m just not one of those humans. I wish I had that sort of endurance! Watching the dogs effortlessly trot down the trail is awe-inspiring.

While all the youngsters are doing exceptionally well, there is one standout so far this season: Foxfire! At the end of last season, Big Tuna, Beesly, and Foxfire had been testing out the lead position. The last few runs, I’ve put Foxfire in front with his buddy Thresher, and Foxfire is giving off Smoky vibes! (AKA, he’s crushing it in lead). I’m excited to test out the other two-year-olds in lead this season. For many dogs, two-years-old is when they start to show their leading potential!

In case folks missed the Facebook post- here is the 2022-2023 logo! Tucker designed this season’s logo in between his mule packing trips this summer. A big thanks to Tucker. We love it!

A photo and video of Tucker’s summer adventures.

While we (Sam, who I plan to introduce soon, and I) started training, Derek visited the Brooks Range. Check out these caribou and bear photos! Derek watched as the bear in the first photo walked along, stopped, and decided that that spot was the perfect place for a nap. The caribou were in various stages of shedding their velvet. Some caribou still had the velvet (dark brown fuzziness on their antlers protecting the blood capillaries) while others had already scraped it off revealing the bone antler underneath.

Nome Arm Wrestling

It’s pouring rain outside, and I’m procrastinating and apparently feeling nostalgic. So here’s a fun story.

March 2015

That February, I had raced in my first 1000 mile race with my own dog team. That March, I traveled to Nome to see Aliy and Allen arrive. For the SP Kennel followers, this was in the days of Waylon and Scout. Scooter and Schmoe. Mac and Izzy. Nacho. Quito. I snowmachined out to White Mountain, where Aliy told me that she would like to participate in the arm wrestling competition in Nome after the race. Fast forward several hours, and Aliy had crossed the finish line in Nome in the afternoon. I looked it up in the Iditarod Archives- 2:44 PM to be exact. Even though she had just raced to a 5th place finish and was by normal human standards exhausted, she enthusiastically said- wake me up from my nap. Let’s go to the arm wrestling competition. Yes, who needs sleep after a 1000-mile race when there’s an arm wrestling competition scheduled.

We headed to the Breakers Bar. Now, I actually have a terrible memory. I think it’s what allows me to race 1000-mile races- I forget specifics and decide I need to race again. So in regards to the arm wrestling competition, I don’t remember all the details, but I’ll share what I do remember. I remember the bar being packed with men and women cheering and jostling around. I remember one of the first matches, where a woman from Anchorage who had flown to Nome for this specific event strutted in wearing a silky robe like a boxer. She pulled the robe off, flexing her insanely large and defined biceps. This woman is going to win- I thought. She was matched up against a lanky woman from Bethel. Boom. The lady from Bethel slammed the Anchorage woman’s fist to the table like it was a mosquito in need of squashing. Alrighty… so it’s not just about big muscles. Technique must matter.

It was my friend Tamara’s turn. Thwack. Tamara slammed the woman’s hand against the table. Tamara’s eyes widen and she bared her teeth and growled a battle cry, a big grin spreading across her face. Ear-to-ear smiles all around.

It was Aliy’s turn. She was matched against a woman from California. The battle began, and as Aliy methodically pressed the woman’s arm to the table, CRACK. The once rowdy and cheering bar went silent. Everyone’s eyes widened as we realized… the woman’s arm was broken. I don’t really remember what exactly happened after that. There was a buzz of activity. Profanities whispered in disbelief. Shocked expressions. The woman was taken to the hospital. Seeing as she was a lawyer from California, it was lucky that the woman was more star-struck rather than angry. And for most news articles about the event, the story ended there. Google more about it if you’re interested. But since this is my nostalgic blog post, the story continued.

Regardless of broken bones, the competition went on. And it ended with Aliy and I being paired for the championship match. Perhaps Aliy was holding back to keep from breaking my arm. Or perhaps she was giving it her all because Aliy Zirkle isn’t known for half-assing anything. But somehow, I walked away with the first place plaque. And I was ECSTATIC.

I called Derek to tell him of my victory. Of how I was the Nome Arm Wrestling Champion. His response- you know you’re not my first girlfriend to have won the Nome arm wrestling competition. I used to date a girl nicknamed Tattoo… Ha WHAT?

Ok, in reality that wasn’t the first thing he said. He first showered me with congratulations, and it wasn’t until later he mentioned Tattoo. But it’s more fun to tell the story with his first response being I’m not his first girlfriend to have won the Nome arm wrestling competition.

To this day I still have the plaque. Not because a first place in a weird, remote arm wrestling competition is necessarily an accomplishment. But because of all the memories around that moment. Tamara’s fierce grin. Aliy’s intensity and energy even after crossing the finish line of a 1000-mile race just a few hours prior. It’s a moment in time that spiderwebs into so many other Nome memories over the years- snowmachining to White Mountain. Eating crab boils. The Safety Bar. Spending time in Nome with SPK. My family in Nome, cheering me on, dancing in bars. My friends in Nome. It’s this weird place where we can ignore the real world just a bit longer while celebrating the exceptional partnership of human and canine in a far-reaching town in remote Alaska.

And sidenote- I’ve never entered another arm wrestling competition. And I doubt I ever will.

Gravel is Gold

BIG NEWS at Ryno Kennel.

Our road and driveway are now COMPLETELY GRAVELLEDl! WAHOOOOO!!! Why is this so exciting you may ask? Well, for the last several years, our road became impassable by vehicles from early April through the end of May during spring break up, requiring us to park closer to the highway and transport groceries, humans, dogs, building supplies, everything, by ATV to the kennel. In 2016, with the help of a dozer from our buddy Dave with Alaska Commercial Rentals, we dozed in Lead Dog Lane and our driveway. Since then, we’ve been making yearly improvements. First a little gravel in bad spots. Then more gravel. Then a culvert. Then gravel down the entirety of Lead Dog Lane, and finally this summer, the last piece of the puzzle: gravel down our driveway. Most likely we’ll still have some soft spots next spring, but it should still be passable by vehicle! This is a game changer.

Even ATVs weren’t always safe.

Transporting sleds back home after an Arctic Trip

For anymore who has visited us in those April/May months, you know how big of a deal this is. Almost everyone has been stuck at one point or another in our driveway. Even during our wedding (which was in late September 2018 after several weeks of rain) a few guests were stopped by the massive puddle on Lead Dog Lane.

Looks dry, but….. SIKE!

The truck slid down off the road.

One time, both Derek and I went to town in separate trucks for errands. The road was almost dry, so we figured we could risk it. On my drive home as I approached a waterboard-like section of silty muck, I felt my truck sink down deep. The tires started spinning, but I wasn’t moving. Oops. After a few choice words in frustration, I jumped out of the truck and starting walking home. Derek will rescue me- I thought. As I approached the house, I looked for Derek’s red truck, but it wasn’t in the parking area. Hm. He must not be home yet. Then the front door of the house opened, and Derek stood there with a sheepish grin, and said, “Where’s your truck? I need it to pull out my truck.” Hand to forehead emoji. Long story short, my truck was stuck on one road while Derek’s was stuck on a different road to the house. With the help of a come-along and a good attitude (ok maybe I didn’t have a good attitude, but I tried) we managed to get Derek’s truck out then used his truck to pull out mine.

Hi-lift jack to the rescue.

As much as I hated getting stuck or having friends get stuck, I learned a lot of great skills. The Hi-Lift jack and I have spent many quality hours together. I no longer look at a pile of old lumber as useless, but instead assess its strength for placing under tires and raising up axles above the mud. I’ve come to appreciate even just one rotation of a tire as forward progress, and patience is key when it comes to getting a massive truck out of mud hole. Don’t just leave 5 minutes early. Leave at least 2 hours early if the driveway is soft. Make sure to help pull out a neighbor. You’ll be the one stuck next time.

I’ll never understand why people choose to go mudding for fun and search for places to get their jeeps and trucks stuck; however, I can appreciate the skills you learn when doing such activities. I’m sure I’ll have to put those skills to use again in the future, but hopefully for the time being, it’ll be smooth sailing back to Ryno Kennel!

A big thank you to Ed Anders for graveling the majority of the road and driveway. Not to mention his company, Chena Valley Development, is a Ryno Kennel sponsor! Thank you!

Next Winter Plans

Last weekend was the Iditarod Volunteer Picnic and Sign Ups! You might have noticed that Ryno Kennel isn’t on the roster for the 2023 Iditarod. We were excited to see 21 mushers planning to travel the trail to Nome, but we will not be one of them this year.

For the last eight years, we have conditioned and trained for a 1000-mile race every winter. Some of my most cherished mushing memories have been during my races or training trips. However, prepping for a 1000-mile race is all-consuming, and this winter, we’re excited to try something a little different. My foundational drive for having a sled dog team has always been bonding with the dogs and traveling in the magical, remote places of the North. The races provide the opportunity to do just that; however, they also have a pretty rigid framework. All that is to say- we still plan to do an adventure this winter, it just won’t be the Iditarod Trail.

We haven’t nailed down our exact plans just yet, and the final decision will probably depend on conditions and weather, but we’ve had a blast brainstorming ideas! One of my favorite so far is traveling from Circle to Dawson, spending time at all the remote cabins along the way. There is so much history in that part of Alaska, that I’d say this trip is near the top of the list. Or maybe venturing from Derek’s old trapline cabin in Big River and traveling home. Or maybe explore the Upper Salcha. There are SO MANY amazing places in Alaska it might be hard to pick! I’ll be filming the trip so that we can share the experience with everyone. We’ll also carry along a tracker for RK followers to keep track of our progress.

But for you racing fanatics, don’t worry, we’ll still make an appearance in the race circuit! We have 10 two-year-olds who have yet to race, so we hope to get them on their first 200 or 300 mile race. We haven’t decided which race to participate in just yet- any ideas?

Tucker will also be returning for his second season at Ryno Kennel and with a little prodding, we’ll hopefully get to read some of his colorful blog posts again. Mandy and Simon are moving to Switzerland. While we’re sad to see them go, I have a feeling they’ll be back to Alaska some day! Kalyn recently purchased a house just a mile or so from the kennel, so they will continue helping with Chena Outdoor Collective and developing our reindeer tours. The house has a bit of…..let’s call it character. Kalyn is documenting the remodel on their Tiktok account- @crotchetyoptimist The videos are hilarious. Check them out!